• •An average American uses about 750 pounds of paper every year, & 98% of homes are built using wood. That means each person uses the equivalent of one 100 foot tall, 16 inch diameter tree every year for their paper & wood products needs.

• •Water originating in our national forests provides drinking water for over 3,400 communities & approximately 60 million individuals.

• •About one third of the United States of America is covered by forests.

• •According to the last forest inventory, there are almost 247 billion trees over 1 inch in diameter in the United States.

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City Tree Planting & Care Ordinance

Purpose:

The purpose of this City of Torrington chapter is to provide for the safety of persons and property with regard to trees and shrubs in the city.  (12.28.010)

Planting Trees and Shrubs in Rights-of-Way:

Trees existing in right-of-way are grandfathered for the purpose of this chapter, however, any damage to the curb, gutter or sidewalk caused by such trees shall be repaired at the owner's expense.  Trees are required to be trimmed to allow a clearance of 10 feet above the sidewalk and shall not hang over the street as to endanger the public or limit street lighting.  Trees should not be planted in any right-of-way.  (12.28.020)

Tree Maintenance:

All trees and shrubs which shall be hereafter planted, grown, cultivated or maintained anywhere in the city, in the space between the property line and the street adjacent thereto, shall be kept and maintained in such a manner as to avoid obstructions and for the safety of pedestrians on the sidewalk.  (12.28.030)

Violation-Penalty:

Any person responsible for such failure to comply with the provisions of this article shall be fined a sum not to exceed $750 for each offense and each planting or growth, which may be in violation thereof, shall be deemed a separate offense.  (12.28.040)

Prohibiting Certain Trees Planting:

Certain trees shall be prohibited from being planted within the city limits.  These trees include but are not limited to Silver Maple, Elm, Russian Olives and all cottoning  Cottonwoods.  The tree board may add trees to the list as necessary.  Those existing trees will be grandfathered.  (12.28.070) Section C.  Back to Top

Distance From Property Line:

No tree may be planted closer to any property line than the following:  small trees - 2 feet; medium trees - 3 feet; large trees - 4 feet.  (12.28.070) Section D.

Planting Under & By Utilities:

No trees may be planted under or within 15 feet laterally from any overhead electric utility wire, or over or within 10 lateral feet of any underground water line, sewer line or transmission line or other utility.  Shrubs may be planted under power lines if maintained at a height no greater than 10 feet and not to encroach upon any alleyway.  No tree shall be planted or maintained within 10 feet of any fire plug.  The City of Torrington shall have the right to trim or remove trees or shrubs that encroach upon the power lines or fire plugs.  (12.28.070) Section F.

Care of Trees:

Pruning, Corner Street Clearances:  Every owner of any tree overhanging any street or right-of-way within the city shall prune the branches so that such branches shall not obstruct the light from any street lamp or obstruct the view of any street intersection, so that there shall be a clear space of 10 feet above the surface of the street.  The owner shall remove all dead, diseased or dangerous trees, or broken or decayed limbs that constitute a menace to the safety of the public.  The city shall have the right to prune any tree or shrub on private property when it interferes with the proper spread of light along the street from a street light or interferes with visibility of any traffic control devices or signs.  Back to Top

Dead or Diseased Trees Removal on Private Property:

The city shall have the right to cause the removal of any dead or diseased trees on private property within the city when such trees constitute a hazard to life and property, or harbor insects or disease that constitute a potential threat to other trees within the city.  The city tree board will notify in writing the owners of such trees.  Removal shall be done by the owners at their own expense within sixty 60 days after the date of the service notice.  In event of failure of owners to comply with such provisions, the city shall have authority to remove such trees and charge the cost of removal to the owner's property tax notice.  (12.28.080) Section D.

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When To Prune: 

   When to prune depends to a large extent on why you prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can be done anytime. Otherwise, here are some guidelines, but recognizing that individual species may differ.  

Winter – Pruning during dormancy is the most common practice. It results in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired effect. It is usually best to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed. Some species, such as maple, walnuts and birches, may “bleed” when the sap begins to flow. This is not harmful and will cease when the tree leafs out.  

Summer – To direct the growth by slowing the branches you don’t want; or to slow or “dwarf” the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal growth is complete. The reason for the slowing effect is that you reduce the total leaf surface, thereby reducing the amount of food manufactured and sent to the roots for their development and next year’s growth of the crown.

   Another reason to prune in the summer is for corrective purposes. Defective limbs can be seen more easily, or limbs that hang down too far under the weight of leaves.  

Fall – Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and healing of wounds seems to be slower on fall cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage.  

Flowering Trees – If your purpose for pruning is to enhance flowering. 1. For trees or shrubs that bloom in summer or fall on current year’s growth, prune in winter. 2. For trees that bloom in spring from buds on one-year-old wood prune when their flowers fade.

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Keys To Good Pruning: 

1. Prune early in the life of the tree so pruning wounds is small and so growth goes where you want it.  

2. Begin your visual inspection at the top of the tree and work downward. 

3. Identify the best leader and lateral branches (scaffold limbs) before you begin pruning and remove defective parts before pruning for form. 

4. Don’t worry about protecting pruning cuts. For aesthetics, you may feel better painting larger wounds with a neutral-color tree paint, but the evidence is that it does not prevent or reduce decay. 

5. Keep your tools sharp. One-hand pruning shears with curved blades (secateurs) work best on your trees. 

6.Make safety a number one priority. For high branches use a pole pruner. A professional arborist should do a major pruning job on a big tree. 

7. When you prune back to the trunk or a larger limb, branches too small to have formed a collar (swollen area at base) should be cut close. Otherwise, follow the rules of good pruning of larger limbs by cutting just outside of the branch ridge and collar and at a slight down and outward angle (so as not to injure the collar). Do not leave a protruding stub.  

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8. When simply shortening a small branch, make the cut at a lateral bud or another lateral branch (referred to as “head” or “headback pruning). Favor a bud that will produce a branch that will grow in a desired direction (usually outward). The cut should be sharp and clean, and made at a slight angle about ¼ inch beyond the bud.

Pruning for Strength 

   The first guide to pruning a young shade tree is to have a clear understanding about what pruning can do for the tree and you.

   For example, we know to prune modestly –if at all when transplanting a new tree. An immediate objective must be to strengthen and expand the root system, which is usually reduced by 80-90 percent during transplanting. To meet this objective, as much as possible of the leaf surface (the tree’s food factories) is left intact. Only damaged or dead limbs should be removed.

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   After the first year, pruning should begin in earnest. Pruning with strength as the objective is the best way to avoid weak branches later on, and to prevent expensive corrections that will otherwise become necessary. 

   What to look for:

Branch Angles – Narrow angles signal a point of future weakness, whether in the trunk or crown. The reason is that as the two branches grow, neither has sufficient space to add the wood needed for strength. Instead, they grow against each other. The effect is similar to hammering in a wedge. To prevent this and the expensive problems that are sure to follow, simply remove one of the two branches. For strength, the ideal branching angle approximates 10 or 2 o’clock.

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   Lateral branches should be no more than ½ to ¾ the diameter of the truck. As the truck grows it will strengthen the joint by adding wood around the branch – like a dowel in a chair leg.

Watersprouts and Suckers

   These “parasite” sprouts can occur at the base or inside the crown. They are rapidly growing, weakly attached and upright. Usually they use more energy than they return to the tree. It is best to remove them as soon as possible when it is obvious they are vigorous sprouts.  

Rubbing Branches 

   Branches that rub result in wounds, decay and notches. Remove one of the offending branches.

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Center of Gravity 

   Young trees deformed by wind may be corrected by pruning. Move the tree’s center of gravity to a point more central over the truck by cutting back the leader and laterals on the downwind side (or direction of lean) to more upright branches.

Temporary Branches

   Branches below the lowest permanent branch can protect young bark from injury from the sun and add taper and strength to the truck. Particularly in lawn plantings where lower limbs do not block passage or tempt vandals, the limbs may be left for 3-4 years after planting. Then remove over the next 2-3 years, beginning with the larger temporaries. Don’t let the temporary branches become large and vigorous. Shorten the larger temporary branches, or remove vigorous temporaries if less vigorous ones can be selected.

Pruning for Form 

   The objective in pruning for form is to help shape a tree that is aesthetically pleasing and serves will in the space it is to occupy. After pruning with strength in mind, look for ways to help shape the most desirable tree.

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Thinning and Spacing  

   Most trees benefit from thinning – removing a portion of the limbs that compete for space and light. Evenly spaced laterals, 8-12 inches apart in the young tree, is a good rule of thumb to help assure an ideal “ladder” at maturity.

Ingrowers Protruders and Crown Ratio 

   When a crown is dense, look for limbs that turn inward, and those that extend beyond the “national” outline of the crown. Prune at the truck or down to an appropriate lateral branch. Over-pruning can danger or even kill your tree. Always maintain at least ¾ of the tree as the live crown.

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Function 

   Try to imagine what the tree will look like when it is larger. If a limb is headed toward trouble (the house, walkway, signs, etc.) remove as early as possible in the life of the tree. Closure of wound will be more complete when the limb is small, and it is less trouble and expense. Remember, limbs do not move upward as a tree grows in height.

Double Leaders 

   Protect the leader from competition. In trees with co-dominant leaders, remove the one with a crook or other defects, or that creates a lopsided appearance.

CAUTION 

   Do not prune too high too quickly. To “lift” (raise) the crown, remove lower limbs over several years. No more than 25 percent of the live crown should ever be removed in an annual growing season.

Mulching 

   Use a coarse texture mulch; wood chips, bark chips or fist-sized rocks. Porous landscape fabric is also a mulch. One purpose of mulch is to reduce soil surface exposure to wind and sunlight, which allows longer retention of soil water. Another mulch benefit is to moderate soil temperature extremes, prolonging warmer soil temperatures into fall, which allows for extended root growth. Mulch also acts as a boundary between the fragile tree bark on young trees and lawn care equipment. Large sized organic mulch can slowly decompose providing nutrients to the soil. Mulch reduces the compaction of soil around the tree. Compacted soil around tree roots causes root death and decline or death. Keep all types of mulch from touching the tree truck.

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